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Thursday, November 26, 2015

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8 + 2 tips to keep your car as new


8 + 2 tips to keep your car as new



We started by talking to a group of restorers teachers: men who make their living taking their vehicles to their original states. Some of them are specialists in interior details, or to preserve the invaluable original upholstery of models considered as classical antiquities. Others were mechanics who prepared the cars. Sporting careers. Many were skilled in metal work and painting, who often had to make the body panels as old vehicles spare parts were only memories.

They can tell horror stories about very abandoned and abused incredibly cars, and have good ideas about what homeowners can do to keep their cars away from the restoration workshops.

Periodically clean the drain holes in the bottom of the doors with a pipe cleaner, so that moisture does not accumulate

1 Clean dirt


The underside of a car faces a constant battle against corrosion. Only a few simple steps can help keep it free from rust.
Who lives in a cold climate, with a garden hose to wash all traces of salt spread on the roads when it snows. Especially wash the inside of the wheel well and under the car, where mud and leaves accumulate and act as traps moisture, thereby creating ideal conditions for rust.
Periodically clean the drain holes in the bottom of the doors with a pipe cleaner, so that moisture does not accumulate
Use a stiff bristle brush to loosen any sediment which could not be removed with the hose. While under the car, check for any loose or missing fender or fender inner panel, which will fix or replace.
The doors of many vehicles have drain holes that can clog. Use a thin wire or pipe cleaner to destupirlos. Obstruction can create internal corrosion, which extend oxide faster than in the exposed parts.
Once a month, inspect the bottom of the car to find clogged drains or missing plugs. The water resistant layer is applied to the underside of the vehicle must be well attached. A loose or missing area would allow the iodine and salt accumulate and come into contact with the metal. With a spatula scrape off the protective layer where there is loose or corrosion, and then with a wire brush and solvent thoroughly clean it. Buy a sprayable can and apply a new protective coating on these areas.

Similarly, clean the components of the suspension, as the top of the control arms to keep them free of mud and dirt, and keep these painted areas.

2 Lubrication suspension


The lubrication of the chassis and suspension every 24,140 km (15,000 miles) helps preserve the car running and maneuverability. To find the lubrication points, see your manual. Do not be surprised if a car has 10 to 20 of these lubrication points.
Some manufacturers install plugs in places where they should be links (valves) for fat. But on your own you can also buy these valves and proceed to install.
You can also purchase grease guns manually operated. Pay special attention to the zerk valve in the upper and lower ball joints (these may be covered by a layer of dirt which must be cleaned before pumping fat). Pump grease until you see it on the surface, but do not fill the envelope to the end spillage.

Tip: When winter approaches, apply a layer of silicone lubricant all hoses, fittings, seals and insulating covers of cables, so keep them flexible. When the temperature rises, wipe off excess lubricant to prevent contamination with dust.
Next, examine all connections of the suspension. Tighten all bolts in the chassis using the appropriate key.
The continued suspension supposed to inspect the ball joints are worn. Some manufacturers use wear indicators in the spherical joints. While the car rests on the floor, inspect wear collar surrounding ball joints valves for fat in the lower surface of the joint. If the collar descends from the surface of the joint, the joint is worn and should be replaced. In other wear indicator (found in Chrysler models), try moving the valve to the fat. If it moves, it means that the joint is worn and should be replaced.

In vehicles without wear indicators in the joints, you should consult the manual to find the correct diagnostic procedure.

3 Fluid drive direction


Like the hydraulic brake system of the motor direction it is subject to the ravages of time. Rubber hoses and complex mechanisms to seal wearing can go and contaminate the fluid direction. So that the fluid must be changed at least every 64,375 km (40,000 miles).
To empty the system, first locate the ducts pump the driving direction. Usually a high-pressure fluid outlet of the pump, which is fixed to coupling with a steel sleeve with inwardly folded edge. You have to disconnect the return line of low pressure, laque is usually fixed with a hose clamp to the return nozzle. While transmission fluid added to the reservoir, you will need an assistant will turn the steering wheel from left to right this {for the front wheels must be raised from the ground and the car sustained by metal sopol1es). Continue to drain the old fluid until the new start out of the pump. Then reattach the return line and place the fluid reservoir cap. A1 wheel a few turns will be sufficient to remove air bubbles.
Another way to prolong the life of the pump and steering rack is to install a filter for the fluid inside the line. The filter is fixed with a hose clamp in the return line to the pump low pressure. First, drain the fluid direction, then cut the rubber hose about 5 cm {2 ") .the inlet nozzle. After a hose clamp to attach the filter cut ends of the hose. The fine grid the filter traps the abrasive particles that can cause failure.

Lubricate the parking brake wire to prevent corrosion and the brake locks

4 Review brake system


The brakes require more than an occasional revision to keep them at optimal performance. Annually an inspection and try to find corroded pipes or cut, or worn hoses or greatly affected by the weather.
Disc brakes can benefit if the pads are periodically disassembled and "exercise" brake calipers. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar gauge to separate and compress the piston {piston) back into the bore. This will break the seal any corrosion before it advances enough to immobilize the pistons. Repeat this procedure several times with each gauge, pump the brake pedal to the piston pops out.
Lubricate the parking brake wire to prevent corrosion and the brake locks
Remove the pads and scrub with a wire brush surfaces where sliding pads or channels are based on the gauge (depending on whether the car has 1 or 2 piston calipers), for the pad to slide from front to back easily. Lightly lubricate the sliding surfaces with white grease or antiengrane 'be careful not to lubricate the friction surfaces of the brake'.
Similarly, clear the rear brake drums, and 'exercise' and lubricate the self-adjusting mechanism, like the contact surfaces of the pads and backing plates.
Inspect the brake cable, and apply some grease or oil within the sheathed portion of the cable. Check toothed mechanism in the hand lever, lubricating the. pivot point and the lock (claw). When everything is properly lubricated, see if you need to adjust the cable itself, which is usually where the tensile bar divides the cable (coming from the handle) into two individual cables going to the rear wheels.

Like any other lubricant, the brake fluid must be changed regularly

5 Changing the brake fluid


The brake fluid is the life of the brake system. He drained periodically, every 40.235km (25,000 miles), removes contaminants that can make a clean coffee colored fluid mud again.
Unless you have a motive trap, the drain brake fluid required the work of two people. First, open the bleed screw hexagonal located in each calibrator and cylinder. Warning: Many older models of cars can be corroded hex screws that can get stuck.
Lubricate the screw prior to loosen. After unhook the screws, have your assistant press the brake pedal several times until no more fluid flow. Close the bleed screws, then enter the system in the master cylinder. Tape the master cylinder and pump the pedal several times.
Like any other lubricant, the brake fluid must be changed regularly
At this time, bleed the brake system gauges and cylinders. Open the bleed valves on all four calipers or brake cylinders (but do it carefully). These bleed valves tend to corrode, especially if the brakes were not purged regularly. Use a penetrating oil, let sit for a while, and use a wrench of the appropriate size to turn the valve. Then open a back purge valve and pump the fluid out of the master cylinder, pressing the brake pedal repeatedly. Close the back valve and purge the front valve.
Close the valve and fill the reservoir with new fluid from the can. Have your assistant step on the pedal and hold, while opening and closing a valve to drain back. Do this repeatedly until it is cool fluid instead of air. Repeat for the other three wheels, and do it again on all four wheels (and keep the reservoir filled to half).
Many experts recommend the use of silicone brake fluid. The advantage of silicone is that it attracts water into the brake system, greatly increasing the life of the seals and duct system. Moreover, the cost of the silicone fluid is three times the standard fluid. Additionally, silicone is water to which the oil vinegar. The not absorbed moisture can accumulate in low spots and oxidize the hydraulic system. Some silicones are not compatible with regular glycol based fluids, making a total reconstruction of the brake system is necessary to make product changes.

The spring compressor is a necessary tool to change a coil spring

6 Replacement of shock absorber and strut


Normally, the last buffers between 48,280 and 72,420 km (30,000 to 45,000 miles), depending on the weight of the car and the state of public roads where transit area. An appropriate substitution helps preserve the vehicle's suspension. Shabby cushions in a short time wreak havoc on the fly and maneuverability, and long-term damage the alignment of the entire suspension system.
Look for fluid leaks in each damper. A damper showing evidence of a leak should be changed. If a car is excessively swings up and down after passing over a shoulder of the road, its shock absorbers should be changed.
The substitution of conventional shock absorbers simply assumes Loosen the bolts of the old and install the new ones. Most cushions are fixed with bolts to the frame by a straight upper pin, which is held in place with a nut. We will have to use pliers to hold the shaft, while rotating the bolt with the wrench.
The spring compressor is a necessary tool to change a coil spring
It is possible that the two pins attached to the metal sheet are stuck by oxidation. If a key does not work with a torch or split them to use a chisel or splitter nuts.
To reduce weight and conserve space in the engine compartment, many manufacturers have moved the MacPherson suspension struts.
In these, the buffer / strut unit is surrounded by a spring and acts as a support member of the suspension. Professional mechanics use a powerful spring compressor to prevent the spring unwinds quickly. Without this tool without much experience with MacPherson struts, this work owes let a professional mechanic. 

To decide on their own to replace the strap, make sure it has the proper manual and relevant experience.

7 Replacing the springs


The springs contribute to overcome tire wear and misalignment, because they alter the weight distribution of the car on the fly. A car is equipped with coil springs or leaf springs planes (only the rear). Excessive caution has to render service to a coil spring. In nine out of 10 facilities it will be necessary to use a spring compressor.
In cars with rear-support lower control arm on the basis of cat. Then, apply the spring compressor and secure two spring clips. These clamps subsequently become valuable benchmarks. Immediately proceed to remove the pin of the stabilizer bar.
Remove the old pier, place standing at the old pier, and then marks the spring clips. Then fix clamps on these marks. These are the benchmarks that allow properly seat the spring. Now you incorpóreles clamps new docks, reinstall and then reassemble the lower control arm. Using the compressor, remove the clamps from the docks when they are properly aligned.
The rear leaf springs are joined like a sandwich by bolts and under heavy load can be split. This shearing effect causes a condition in which the rear end of the car does not move in line with the front. Be sure to use replacement bolts for leaf springs (these are special high strength bolts). The rear blades are usually secured to the frame by two bolts "U". After lifting the car on jack stands, find these two bolts in one side of the pier. Záfelos simply slide the old dock and place the new one. If the "U" bolts are badly corroded, you must cut and replace.
A warped rear spring, can sometimes be arched again in a professional workshop where you return your original contour. The workshop must examine the dock to see if it is in a state where they can do this work, because the springs in these conditions tend to crack down the middle. But in a workshop they may make a new dock economically. It could remove the dock on your own and take it to the workshop. The workshop will also need to correct anti-squeak ranging spacers between the sheets.
Do you know what the height of the car right gear? Manufacturers publish detailed tables of specifications for the front and rear.

 Try to find them in the manual and check if you are as specified.
To adjust the steering box requeren the Allen wrench and hex hub

8 Repair a maladjusted address


An address in poor condition can affect maneuverability on the road and the safety of the driver and passengers.
If you have a conventional motor type steering box (other than rack and pinion), the adjustment is not difficult. In the manual for the drive where bomb is. On top of it there is an allen screw that controls the address setting. Many professionals make the adjustment to the touch. With the engine running, move the adjustment screw in quarter turn. Spin the wheel after each adjustment until you find a comfortable operation. To check the operation, make a test drive in which you have plenty of twists. The steering wheel should return to its normal position easily as the vehicle straightens.
To adjust the steering box requeren the Allen wrench and hex hub
If the vibrating direction, especially after crossing the car on a shoulder, you must reset the steering joint. To check if they are tight, put the car on jack stands and shake the entire structure of the wheels. You should expect some horizontal movement. But a vertical game without restrictions may be a sign of a rod (rod end) worn it must be replaced.
The cars have steering system in parallel (four tie rod ends) or rack and pinion steering (two ends of rod). To replace a rod end, unhook the rod end nut, after having removed the pin from the cotter pin. Use a ball peen hammer and rod end separator to disarm the joint. You can also use an exhaust end of rod to separate the ends of the strap without damaging the dust cover.
Before replacing the rod end, measured center to center and from the inside out along the rod end. This measure will help put the new strap in the correct position, without having to change the setting of the tip. Now you can loosen the locking bolt on the collar strap and unscrew the end of worn bar. Install a new rod end, squeezing according to the measure.
After repairing a strap or other joint direction of the vehicle, have them perform a wheel alignment machine in a four-wheel alignment.

An economic spark plug tester which is used to check a blue spark on the wire

9 Review of the spark plug wires


Power failures in an engine not only cause vibrations, but poor performance and high fuel consumption. and fill the catalytic converter unburned fuel, raising its internal temperature and shortening its life. Check the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (on cars equipped with distributor). Look for cracks inside the cap (albeit thin as a hair) and burns the plastic material of the rotor,
An economic spark plug tester which is used to check a blue spark on the wire
and replace parts that are not perfect. Check to see if the cables have oil buildup or cracks in the insulating cover, and then test the condition of each cable.
A simple test is to use a low-cost tool that replaces the plug and provides a visual check of the ability of the cable to carry the spark plug while the engine is running or idling.
Another measure is to buy replacement cables of high quality. The games universal low-cost cables are problematic. Being universal, they have a length that allows the path of several models. A length of 2.54 or 5 cm (1 or 2 ") in excess could cause a power failure difficult to locate. Second, with high temperatures that develop today's engines, only the best insulation can withstand the heat . After a few months conventional cables are in poor condition.
The downside of the new silicon material is its mechanical weakness. If the terminal of a spark plug is pulled with pliers it could damage the rubber. So you could invest in a set of pliers plastic material designed specifically for this type of use. These pliers are acquired at low cost houses that sell spare parts (but be aware that the cables are expensive).
Replace spark plug cable externally show deterioration (particularly in the terminal), and try to find some looseness of a terminal at each end of the cable and see if the cable causes a power failure during testing. Be sure to double the original route of each cable, carefully inserting it into its plastic guides, so that they are insured. Failure to follow the original path of travel occasionally cause power failures.
The ancient tradition of pull and loosen the spark plug terminal and let loose cable next to multiple, is not recommended. Apart from the filled compartments that are current engines, the spark generated electronically has a higher varieties points and before substantial voltage capacitors mind. You could receive an electric shock if the spark finds a better route to land the air space left (could happen from the elbow to the defense).

And keep in mind that the risk of costly black box burn ignition spark if it fails and can not get elsewhere are also running.

10 Battery Maintenance


If the battery or cable connections are corroded or loose, it will be difficult to start the engine in cold temperatures and this means more unburned fuel diluting the oil from the crankcase, being affected engine lubrication. Only slight corrosion film (hard to see) affects the ability of the battery for charging, so that with a wire brush at least once a year the terminals of cables and battery. Do not forget the other end of the cables: grounding the body or engine must also be cleaned with the wire brush, then tight, and connect the positive cable must be tight.
Keep the plastic surface of the battery well cleaned. After cleaning the terminals properly, rinse the surface with warm water, wipe with a soft grease cutting detergent and rinse again. This will prevent an oil film trap dust (which is conductive and discharge the battery slightly day and night). Finally, cover the parts of goal) of the terminals and cables with grease to prevent future corrosion.

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